Archive for the ‘Weekend from Bangalore’ Category

The Goan Evenings

Tuesday, February 16th, 2010

Sitting in a beach-side restaurant in Palolem’s long and wide beach in the evening, I watched the blazing sun go mild and turn orange as he went behind a boulder strewn crag that stretched into the sea. As the sea breeze kissed us in the leisurely evening, people of various origins—some from nearby towns, some on a weekend getaway and some coming from half-way across the world on a long lazy holiday—strolled along the beach in a completely unhurried pace that reflected the Goan way of living easy. Those swimming in the ocean and skimming along the waves made their way slowly towards the beach as the sun drifted down the horizon.

goa beach

Sipping my colourful and fruity drink that is so characteristic of beach-side life of leisure, I saw the clouds working with the sun to paint the sky in various hues and shapes of beauty, announcing the beginning of another careless and happy evening for the holidaying visitors. As the colours in the sky faded and the stars began twinkling in the sky, the blooming face on moon intensified the urge of the waves to reach for the shores. The otherwise silence of the evening was periodically enhanced by the gurgling waves, foaming and glistening in the darkness. As the romance of the evening took over the charm of a sunbath, the tables from my restaurant that were confined under a roof now expanded into the sandy shores, lit by candle light and the rays of moon.

Every thoughts of Goa remind of the pleasant evenings I spent there. Each place in Goa had its own distinct characteristics that offered a unique experience, but every evening was marked by the sound of the waves and a feeling of contentment. Once listening to the waves in the deserted vagator beach after dark, we were amused by an army of small harmless crabs scurrying in such large numbers that we had to evacuate from there. But the loss of being the sandy beach was adequately compensated by a great movie playing on a big television screen in an open-air sports bar nearby. Not to forget again was the colourful fruity drink, this time followed up with a large serving of delicious Goan cuisine.

A completely different experience away from the beaches on a pleasant winter evening is still etched in my memory. In the backwaters of Mandovi River among the small islands with sparsely inhabited villages, marshes and thick population of mangroves, I sauntered in Diwar island in search of a Goa away from the sea. The tall structures of the churches from Old Goa dominated the horizon somewhere far away. Gentle aberrations of the nearby green hills were bifurcated by the blue stretch of Mandovi. As the last light of the day fell on the tip of the trees, small groups of dazzling white egrets appeared as countless dots in small clusters near the horizon. They grew larger and larger as the flew into us, some in small groups of a few dozens and some in large groups of hundreds. They kept coming in more and more numbers as the evening progressed. As darkness fell and their numbers dwindled, I had seen a few tens of thousands emerging from the eastern sky and flying into their roost in the islands of Mandovi. Nowhere else had I seen a spectacle of these pure white birds in such large numbers filling up the evening sky.

gokarna om beach

Best of my sea-side memories come from Gokarna, a small town just south of Goan borders. It is here that I have seen some of the most beautiful beaches that are a mix of rocky and sandy shores. After drifting far from the shore and swimming for hours in the calm seas, I came back and sat on a rock to witness sunset on a rocky shore. As the sun turned into an orange ball and glittered in the wavy sea waters, small boats made their way home after a long day at sea. Dolphins danced against the sun in the deep sea and celebrated the evening with joy. As the waves kissed the earth and bounced on the rocks around me, they sprinkled a few drops on me and gave me a feeling of a complete joy that I found nowhere else before.

Images from around Bangalore

Sunday, November 29th, 2009

Often when we long for a holiday, we look up to going to places faraway. It could be in the heart of Himalayas or somewhere in South-East Asia or even Australia – New Zealand, but not often somewhere close to home. But it could be surprising to see how beautiful the places around us can be. Here is a compilation of images from places near Bangalore.

waterfall

A waterfall in Coorg

nandi hills

View from Nandi Hills

gaganachukki

Shivansamudra waterfalls

skandagiri hills

The view from Skandagiri

hampi tungabhadra river

River Tungabhadra in Hampi.

Images: Arun Bhat

The discoveries of Hampi

Thursday, November 19th, 2009

I have always discovered something new each time I visited Hampi. The first time when I was a total stranger to the place and my knowledge was mostly based on guidebooks, I was surprised to see the green vista of plantain orchards from my vantage point over Matanga Hill. I had gone through the map several times, knew the location of all the monuments and the best places to see sunrise and sunsets. But no one had told me about the plantain orchards.

hampi

It was a similar experience at Tungabhadra Dam. I knew it is large dam that formed a huge reservoir, but the discovery came in the form of rich population of birds in the area. River Terns flew over the channels and dived to catch fish. Small and agile birds hopped along the shrub jungle adjoining the dam. Parakeets in small groups flew long distances in a great hurry.

I am told even richer bird life and mammal population awaits the visitors in nearby Daroji Bear Sanctuary, about 10km from Hampi. I had not even heard about this rarely visited place located in the shadow of Hampi. I now know about it, thanks to a few friends who have been there, but it is still in my list of places to visit.

hampi

During my last visit two years ago, a surprise came in the form of natural beauty to the northern side of the river. The boulder strewn landscape was so fabulous that I decided to spend more time on that side of Hampi in my next visit, instead of wandering through the monuments.

From what I have known and heard about this little magical land that was once the capital of an empire, it is doubtless that there is much more to discover in every visit. There is a spiritual mystery to Hampi that I can feel each time I go there, but have not yet understood. I know there is something about its landscapes that makes me go there again and again that lets me see something new each time. I know Hampi will never disappoint me no matter how often I go. Right now, I am preparing for my next visit that is due this winter.

Also see: All that you want to know about Hampi on iVinca.

Weekend From Bangalore: Your Guide to Coorg

Monday, November 9th, 2009

You might have read about experiences of Subhransu Behera, who had spent a weekend in Coorg. If you are planning a visit to Coorg yourself, here is all that you want to know about the place.

The Basics

Coorg is a small district in the southern edge of Karnataka. The picturesque district is known for its thick forests, green hills, winding roads that go up and down the hills, its friendly people and a pleasant weather. At just 250km from Bangalore, it serves as an ideal weekend destination. Kodavas, the original inhabitants of Coorg have a distinct culture of their own. While you are here, you can relax and sip home grown coffee, see some beautiful waterfalls or go on some tough treks.

The places

More often than not, you will be happy to relax in your resort or home stay that would be located in a coffee estate or a quaint location. But if you are keen to see places and travel around the district, there are a lot of places worth visiting.

Kaveri Nisargadhama. This is a small island formed by River Kaveri. The island is a popular location for picnic, where you can cross the river on a hanging bridge, play in the water, take an elephant ride and see the deer in an enclosed park. You can also book accommodation in the island.

kaveri nisargadhama

Abbey Falls. The most popular waterfall in Coorg is located in a coffee estate just 15 minutes away from Madikeri town. The perennial waterfall is at its best after monsoons when the water is clear and the volume is good. You can also get into the stream and wet yourself, but beware of deeper sections.

Madikeri. The district headquarters of Coorg is the small town of Madikeri, which has about 500 years of history attached to it. The Fort of the erstwhile rulers of Coorg in the heart of the town is now converted into a government office, so come on a working day if you would like to see inside. Raja Seat, a small park with views of a scenic valley appears beautiful and foggy in the morning hours. Also visit the centuries old colourful Omkareshwara Temple. One of the less known places you can visit in Madikeri is the tombs of the kings, locally referred to as ‘gaddige’.

rajaseat

Irpu Waterfall. At the southern edge of Coorg is the most charming waterfall at the foot of Brahmagiri Hills. Laxman Teertha River flows down from the forests of Brahmagiri and tumbles down a rock face in the village of Irpu. Located in a thick forest and next to Bamboo Groves, this is perhaps the most beautiful place in Coorg. Visit in winter when the water is clear.

irpu falls

Talakaveri. At the northern edge of Brahmagiri Ranges, on the top of a hill is Talakaveri, the place where River Kaveri originates. This is a holy place for Kodavas. You can walk up through a series of steps from Talakaveri Temple to a grassy ridge where you can see panoramic vista of Brahmagiri Hills.

Nalknad Palace. The Nalknad palace was a retreat of the kings of Coorg. Located in a small village called Kakkabe, the palace lacks the grandeur one would expect from a king’s residence but makes up with its picturesque location at the base of Thadiyandamol Hill. The palace played a key role in the history of Coorg as a place where the kings of Haleri dynasty fortified themselves and fought the enemies.

Besides visiting the popular attractions, you can also make the day-long climb to Thadiyandamol, the highest peak in Coorg. Brahmagiri Peak is another hill which is a long day-trek that can be split into two days. Nagarahole National Park and Wayanad are located at the border of Coorg. If you are spending more than a weekend, you can combine your visit to Coorg with these places.

How to get there?

Take a bus from Bangalore  (there are plenty of them), hire a cab or drive on your own. Coorg is just 250km from Bangalore, so the journey doesn’t tire you. There are no trains or air links to Coorg.

Where to Stay?

All around Coorg, you can stay in the homes of friendly Kodavas who run home stays. A few resorts exist, but homestays are popular and a good way to meet the locals. The budget hotels are located in Madikeri Town.

Visit our Coorg page to plan your itineraries and book a stay that suits your requirement. Ask us for more information and to help you customize your trip to Coorg.